上装适体性研究

1.Introduction

1.1 Garment-Making Systems

1.1.1 HauteCouture

1.1.2 BlockPatterns

1.1.3 PatternDrafting

1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch

1.3 ProposedSolution

1.4 AimsandObjectives

2.LiteratureReview

2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle

2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle

2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle

2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication

2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy

2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods

2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit

2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement

2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement

2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign

2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit

2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction

2.4.1 Modelling

2.4.2 DraftingSystem

2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction

2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign

2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting

2.5.2 TypesofFit

2.5.3 TheAmountofEase

3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures

3.1 Introduction

3.2 Methodology

3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod

3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults

3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement

3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod

3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody

3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult

3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement

3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures

3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors

3.7 Summary

4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod

4.1 GeneralBackground

4.2 ExperimentalWork

4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment

4.2.2 ExperimentProcess

4.2.3 ExperimentalResult

4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern

4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition

4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures

4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast

4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.1

4.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast

4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign

4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition

4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast

4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast

4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit

4.6 TheFabricChoice

4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis

4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric

4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes

5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch

5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer

5.2 TransducerDesign

5.2.1 TheFirstSensor

5.2.2 TheSecondSensor

5.2.3 TheThirdSensor

5.2.4 TheFourthSensor

5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment

5.4 TransducerCalibration

5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody

5.6 ExperimentProcedure

5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock

5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block

5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block

5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements

6.SizeSurvey

6.1 PurposeofSurvey

6.2 SubjectSource

6.3 SettingMeasurementItems

6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey

6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey

6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures

6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures

6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest

6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize

6.6.2 SampleSource

6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes

6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures

6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey

6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction

6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort

6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort

6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat

6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle，ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase

6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised

6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom

6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion

6.9 Summary

7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWork

References

Appendix1

Appendix2

Appendix3

Appendix4

Appendix5

Acknowledgement

《上装适体性研究》是作者在英国曼彻斯特大学攻读博士学位期间研究工作的结晶，亦是作者多年在服装工程领域教学与研究的经验总结。主要研究服装结构对于服装适体性和运动功能性的影响，并从结构上解决或弱化造型与运动功能性的矛盾。《上装适体性研究》由七章组成。第一章介绍研究背景和目的。第二章研究三维人体扫描方法在人体非标准姿势测量中的应用。第三章通过石膏法的应用，获得不同姿势的人体原型，并精确测量人体尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所获得的不同姿势的原型为基础，利用服装软件“COAT4.1”设计不同的放松量进行纸样制作，从而制作出实际的服装。第五章设计并应用压力传感器，测量当人体处于不同姿势时服装与人体之间的压力。第六章通过不同姿势的人体尺寸调查，对适体成衣中的放松量效果进行评价。第七章对全书进行总结。